Saturday, August 28, 2010

Wunderlich Viktoria: Modern and "there"

Wine Name:  Wunderlich Viktoria 2003
Wine Region:  Villany, Hungary
Alcohol: 13%
Tasting Setting:First with friends, then alone.

Nose
Flower: 1 out of 5
Fruit: 4 out of 5- Deep and rich fruit components.
Spice: 5 out of 5-  Tobacco, cedar, some chocolate notes.
Complexity: 3 out of 5. The concentration and spice masks everything else.
Funk:0  out of 5.  Clean as whistle.

Texture
Edge: 3 out of 5- Nice acidity and cleanly integrated in the wine.
Roundness: 4 out of 5-Thank you for not over doing the mallolactic on this one.  Nice.
Body: 4 out of 5-I expected it to be bigger from the nose.  It's not a huge wine in the mouth. 
Silk: 3 out of 5-

Taste
Power: 4 out of 5- The concentrated fruit and spice carries on to the pallet.
Length: 3 out of 5-Luckily the acidty helps the taste linger a bit more, but despite the concentration on the nose the wine isn't extremely long.
Personality: 2 out of 5- Ok, I'm just not big on Bordeau blends and find them often similar.  Good by all means, but it lacks angles and nothing jumps out.
Fruit: 3 out of 5- It's there, but it's covered in jaminess.
Minerality- 2 out of 5-
Wood: 4 out of 5- Not overdone and well integrated, but present.

Overall
Balance: 4 out of 5.
Harmony: 4 out of 5
Elegance: 4 out of 5-Nice.  There's really nothing not to like about this.  It's really well made.
Enjoyment: 2  out of 5
On the 20 Point scale:15.5

Other thoughts

Looks all good when you read the post and by all means this is a well made wine.  I really enjoy it.  Thank you to my friends Andrea and Jo who brought this to me from Budapest.  It comes from the Villany area in Hungary and is a very classic Bodeaux blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot.

  It's very clear that Wunderlich strives to be Bodeaux and they do a good job at it.  I have no clue what this wine costs, but I imagine that it beats almost all Bordeaux's in price quality relationship.  For Bordeaux lovers, try this wine.  It's polished, it's clean, it's got perfect sweetness and richness etc...  This is one of those wines that critics can say nothing bad about.  It's a good wine, but...

I don't really like it.  Where's the edge, where's the acidity, where's the personality?  This wine could come from Bordeaux, from Chile, from Argentina, from California, from Tuscany...  There's nothing about this wine that makes me want to ask questions, to buy more from the region, that enriches me.  I ask no questions.  I drink the wine and thank some wine maker somewhere for making a good wine... and next.  It's good, some may even say really good, but it ends there.  It doesn't make me want to eat, it doesn't make me want to learn, it doesn't make me want to drink more... it's there and it satisfies me.

Satisfaction isn't why I drink wine though.

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